In 2005 I'd spent a few days scambling in the Tetons after having been chased out of the
Wind Rivers by mosquitoes, and was keen to go back, specifically to try the Grand Teton.
Norm Watts was keen to try it as well, so he flew out from Washington D.C. to join me for the trip.


The Tetons.  From the left: Nez Perce (11,901'), Middle Teton (12,804'), Grand Teton (13,770'), Mt. Owen (12,928') and Teewinot Mountain (12,325').

Our base camp was the American Alpine Club Climbers' Ranch, a group of bunkhouses just a few miles from the Grand Teton.  Here's Norm at the cooking shelter.

As a warm-up we went to climb Guide's Wall in Cascade Canyon.  Here's Norm on the approach, with Mt. Owen behind him.

A foreshortened view of Guide's Wall.  The climb goes up the ridge on the left-hand side.  It's about five pitches long with a 5.8 crux.

Norm topping out on Guide's Wall

The next day we hiked up to Garnet Canyon as a starting point for climbing the Grand Teton.  Here's Norm on the approach, with the Middle Teton in the background.

This is me relaxing at our campsite in Garnet Canyon.

The next morning we left camp at 3am and by the time the sun rose we were high up on the Grand Teton.  Here's Norm with the Middle Teton behind him.

Another view of the Middle Teton at dawn.

We'd hoped to climb the Grand Teton by the Direct Exum, a long 5.7 route.  However, the weather at this time wasn't looking too good, so we changed plans and instead went up the Owen- Spalding (the regular route on the Grand Teton).

Norm on the Owen-Spalding's "crawl" pitch, so-called because climbers used to crawl along here on their bellies.

Norm and me on the summit.  Of course it turned out to be a perfect day and we should have done the Direct Exum instead... but now I have a reason for a return visit.